DRILL
YE TARRIERS, DRILL ![](images/nth_green_aluminum_bullet_l.gif)
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Ted Cais was sufficiently distracted
by aid climbing to assault the blankest section of rock at KP and set forth
to work on Hanger Wall with Neill Lamb in July 1966
as a mixed aid and free route. The
climb was completed three weeks later on the 23rd encouraged
by aid whiz Pat Conaghan
and used 8 bolts and
3 pegs. Ted got fatigued by the prospect of continuing
drilling straight up the blank headwall and was seduced
out left instead by an expanding loose flake that allowed
a free finish. The style of the times was to place
all gear on lead and the bolts were home made from flimsy 5/16"
HT hardware items hammered into a lead (Pb) sleeve.
No
fancy power drills then. |
Here Geoff Cullen starts the route
in February, 1968 using the first aid point. Few clips were
used up to the last bolt before the move
onto the expanding flake. Don't ask me why we
set up a toprope in the middle of nowhere! Sheer
folly before the days of double 3/8" stainless-steel
bolts and chains!! |
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Clipping a custom-crafted etrier (Brisbane
Etrier Emporium, Pty.Ltd.) into
the second bolt. Hope that manky top bolt holds. |
"Pull any more outwards on thet
thar pathetic bolt, Sonny, and you'll really find something
to smile about! "
Geoff finding amusement on the slab before
grappling with the awkward niche.
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Copyright (c) 2001 Ted Cais, All rights reserved.
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