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Hanger Wall
Preamble Early Gear Training Cox's Overhang Olos Hanger Wall

DRILL YE TARRIERS, DRILL

Ted Cais was sufficiently distracted by aid climbing to assault the blankest section of rock at KP and set forth to work on Hanger Wall with Neill Lamb in July 1966 as a mixed aid and free route.  The climb was completed three weeks later on the 23rd encouraged by aid whiz Pat Conaghan and used 8 bolts and 3 pegs. Ted got fatigued by the prospect of continuing drilling straight up the blank headwall and was seduced out left instead by an expanding loose flake that allowed a free finish. The style of the times was to place all gear on lead and the bolts were home made from flimsy 5/16" HT hardware items hammered into a lead (Pb) sleeve. No fancy power drills then.

Here Geoff Cullen starts the route in February, 1968 using the first aid point.  Few clips were used up to the last bolt before the move onto the expanding flake.  Don't ask me why we set up a toprope in the middle of nowhere!  Sheer folly before the days of double 3/8" stainless-steel bolts and chains!!

 

 

Clipping a custom-crafted etrier (Brisbane Etrier Emporium, Pty.Ltd.) into the second bolt.  Hope that manky top bolt holds.

"Pull any more outwards on thet thar pathetic bolt, Sonny, and you'll really find something to smile about! "

Geoff finding amusement on the slab before grappling with the awkward niche.

 

 

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Copyright (c) 2001 Ted Cais, All rights reserved.